California

Los Angeles, a city so saturated with Mexican food that its culinary identity feels inseparable from the scent of lime and charred tortillas, is not a place where one expects to be surprised by seafood. And yet, Holbox—a restaurant named after a car-free island off the Yucatán Peninsula, a

Dunsmoor, located in Eagle Rock—a neighborhood that sits just far enough outside the glitz and glam of Hollywood to feel like a deliberate choice rather than an accident—is the kind of place that makes you wonder why anyone bothers with glitz and glam in the first place. It’